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    It was an idyllic moment. For more information on the area and islands, see m and. You can scramble up to windswept headlands for distant views of Norway or plunge into the clear water in secluded coves where you have only seagulls for company. I cycled past colourful fishing shacks perched on stilts above the still water and sunbathed in quiet bays among lichen-coated rocks and clumps of pink thrift. In the main square below stands a bronze statue of the most famous local resident, the iconic Hollywood film star Ingrid Bergman, who lived on the nearby island of Dannholmen for nearly 20 years before her death in 1982. Star resident: Ingrid Bergman spent 20 years living on the island of Dannholmen. Its quirky, themed rooms are named after explorers. It was a wilderness of giant pink boulders and great swathes of pebble-smooth moraine sweeping down to the sea.

    carbon paper to find the form of a man emerging as if by magic. My companion on the train had got it spot. Stopping for lunch at the Koster Trädgårdar, an organic restaurant in a beautiful wild garden, I opted for a typical local dish, meatballs stuffed with lingonberries served with a home-grown herb salad. These northern shores had a balmy Mediterranean climate and the cosy homes with their reed-thatched roofs had straw walls for insulation.

    Travel facts (, ) offers a self-guided walking holiday on Sweden's west coast from 995, free webcam xxx seksiseuraa nainen including six nights' B B accommodation, five dinners, route notes and maps, return internal rail/boat travel from Gothenburg and return ferry to South Koster. A replica of a Bronze Age farm showed how surprisingly comfortable they had. Balancing act: The cliff behind Fjällbacka, above left, and the pretty harbour, right. Mine, Christopher Columbus, had portholes for windows and was decorated with ancient Portuguese weaponry and had Aztec murals around the sunken bath. The plinth beneath the statue is made of granite from her favourite spot on the island over 50 dating sites uk free ekenäs where she used to sit and read her scripts.' isaw Bergman's modest clapboard home standing alone on the rocks as I sped past on a boat to the Väderöarna. Next morning I hired a bike and wobbled off along deserted gravel tracks beside meadows blooming with flowers. Sitting on the private balcony on the first evening, I watched oystercatchers prise open shells with long orange bills while Arctic terns circled overhead, diving headlong into the sea to catch their supper. Just behind the hotel, the Kungsklyftan, a colossal rockface, towers over the marina. These far-flung islands feel impossibly remote with their wave-lashed cliffs and stormy seas. Nearby on the coast lies the old fishing village of Fjällbacka, now a popular yachting centre. I was on my way to the Koster group, a short ferry ride through a maze of rocky outcrops from the port of Strömstad. There is little accommodation except for a simple guesthouse where Annika welcomed me like one of the family. Wives and children were left alone for weeks at a time and in winter the sea froze over. Even in mid-summer I could barely stand against the blustery wind as I took an exhilarating walk along the cliffs. Prehistoric: Rock art at Vitlycke 'I used to ferry her back and forth Torbjörn told. Archive photos in the museum show their families, who lived in total isolation. Pretty lanes lined with traditional wooden houses wind up the hillside above a sheltered bay. On these specks of land there is no traffic except for the occasional tractor. With their savage beauty, these islands would take a lot of beating. Torbjörn, a local guide, took us up through a narrow slit in the cliffs. On my last morning I was up at dawn to hike to the Pilot's Look-Out. It was followed by a gooey chocolate torte decorated with marigold petals. The carvings show images of whales and stick-men on boats and are so faint they have been painted red by archaeologists. I crossed on a little chain-ferry resembling a yellow bus shelter. Small red cabins are dotted across the stark landscape. They were once owned by the pilots who led ships to harbour through the jumble of skerries and reefs. The Stora Hotellet, its oldest hotel, dating from the early 19th Century, is situated near the waterfront. It was early June and I had the island virtually to myself.

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    And that favourite is not just one place, but many. Now the sea is more than four miles away. The only hotel is on South Koster in the village of Ekenäs. Sweden's far-flung islands, home to ancient cave art and Ingrid Bergman's own retreat. Flights (to Gothenburg) are not included. I gazed across a sparkling blue sea to a sliver of sand where harbour seals were basking in the early morning sunshine and performing acrobatic leaps through the waves. North Koster, even smaller than its neighbour, is separated from it by just a few yards of water. It must have been a harsh existence. Strait across: Wendy boards the ferry from South to North Koster. Three gigantic blocks of stone were precariously balanced between the mossy walls directly overhead, but I needn't have worried about being crushed.